Common fit adjustments

Sewing patterns are generally drafted for specific proportions. All bodies are different and your proportions might differ from those referenced in a sizing chart. For example, a certain size might be an accurate match for your waist circumference, but not for your bust or hips measurements. Your cup size and/or height may also differ from the reference sizes. 

My patterns are generally drafted for a reference height of 163cm (5'4") and a cup size B originally. Check the pattern listing for specific sizing info.

Most of my patterns contain notes on fit adjustments in the instruction booklet. As Studio Minapop's sewing pattern collection grows, I'll be adding more info to my website. There are also lots of helpful tutorials online for common size adjustments, made by amazing fellow pattern designers and sewists. Below you can find some suggestions and resources to further tailor a sewing pattern to your body.


Bust adjustments

A lot of commercial patterns are drafted for a specific cup size, which will often be mentioned in the pattern sizing notes. 

If you have a larger cup size than the pattern was drafted for, you might experience fit issues in the bust area (gaping around the armholes, not enough ease around your full bust, ...). This can be resolved by adding shaping to the bodice of the design with darts, and/or by doing a full bust adjustment (FBA). 

If you have a smaller cup size, you can do a small bust adjustment. Or, on a darted bodice, you may want to eliminate the dart entirely. 

Bust adjustments on a flat front bodice

Bust adjustments on a darted bodice

 

So what is the difference between a full bust adjustment (FBA) and adding darts? Essentially they accomplish the same thing: they try to preserve the size of the bodice while also creating room for a larger cup size.

  • When you add darts, you start from the bodice piece in the size that would fit your full bust. You then have to take in the side seams and/or waistline to make the rest of the bodice fit you, which you can accomplish by adding darts. 
  • When you do a full bust adjustment, you start from a bodice piece in the size that would fit you correctly everywhere, except for your bust. This is essentially the size that would fit you if your cup size matched the one that the pattern was originally drafted for. You then add space around the bust to accommodate your cup size.

Common fit issues and adjustments for pants

Some great resources for common pants adjustments:

Specific pants adjustments

Flat seat adjustment

If you have a lot of excess fabric around your bum, you can resolve this with a flat seat adjustment. The easiest way to do this is to decrease the crotch length and lower the back rise. You can find a more elaborate flat seat adjusment tutorial here.

Full thigh adjustment

If you find that a pattern fits your hips and waist well, but is too narrow around the thighs, you can do a full thigh adjustment.