Common fit adjustments

Sewing patterns are generally drafted for specific proportions. All bodies are different and your proportions might differ from those referenced in a sizing chart. For example, a certain size might be an accurate match for your waist circumference, but not for your bust or hips measurements. Your cup size and/or height may also differ from the reference sizes. 

You can find the sizing chart for each Studio Minapop pattern on the product page. My patterns are generally drafted for a reference height of 163cm (5'4") and a B cup size originally.

As Studio Minapop's sewing pattern collection grows, I'll be adding more info to my website on how to alter specific patterns. There are also lots of helpful tutorials online for common size adjustments, made by amazing fellow pattern designers and sewists. Below you can find some suggestions and resources to further tailor a sewing pattern to your body.

 

Bust adjustments

A lot of commercial patterns are drafted for cup size B. If you have a larger cup size, you might experience fit issues in the bust area, such as gaping around the armholes. This can be resolved by adding shaping to the bodice of the design with darts, and/or by doing a full bust adjustment (FBA). 

So what is the difference between a full bust adjustment (FBA) and adding darts? Essentially they accomplish the same thing: they try to preserve the size of the bodice while also creating room for a larger cup size.

• When you add darts, you start from the bodice piece in the size that would fit your full bust. You then have to take in the side seams and/or waistline to make the rest of the bodice fit you, which you can accomplish by adding darts. 
• When you do a full bust adjustment, you start from a bodice piece in the size that would fit you correctly everywhere, except for your bust. This is essentially the size that would fit you if your cup size matched the one that the pattern was originally drafted for. You then add space around the bust to accommodate your cup size. 

Resources on how to do bust adjustments:

• Adding darts to jumpsuits and pinafore patterns (can be used for the Ellie pinafore and Birch top)
• Full bust adjustment on a flat front garment
• Full bust adjustment on a darted jumpsuit pattern
• Full bust adjustment on a darted bodice

 

Common fit issues and adjustments for pants

Some great resources for common pants adjustments:

• Pants fitting guide
• Common trouser fitting adjustments
• Jeans fitting adjustments

Specific pants adjustments

Flat seat adjustment

If you have a lot of excess fabric around your bum, you can resolve this with a flat seat adjustment. The easiest way to do this is to decrease the crotch length and lower the back rise. You can find a more elaborate flat seat adjusment tutorial here.

Full thigh adjustment

If you find that a pattern fits your hips and waist well, but is too narrow around the thighs, you can do a full thigh adjustment.